Restaurant Guide

Arkhé: Restaurant review

Of course there's (very good) steak at a restaurant focused on cooking with fire, but the joys of Arkhé are in the unconventional.

REVIEW

Of course there's (very good) steak at a restaurant focused on cooking with fire, but the joys of Arkhé are the unconventional ways in which chef Jake Kellie embraces the flame. Take the signature parfait tartlet à la Burnt Ends, in which duck liver's blended to a velvet softness and a scorched brittle top delivers an audible, sexy crunch. Two years after opening, Arkhé still provides a buzz, with the kitchen bench offering the best view of the team in motion. The energy is tangible. It sizzles in sticky, glazed kingfish collar and permeates a fermented pork-and-rice sausage with chilli jam fierce enough to blow cobwebs away. A wine list full of far-flung global beauties sits alongside a cocktail spread that includes a Penicillin, which gets flamed for extra theatrical fun. Even freshly baked madeleines with face-puckeringly tart passionfruit curd get the fiery treatment, rounding out a dining experience that's always red-hot.

ABOUT

Arkhé
Australian
127 The Parade, Norwood
(08) 8330 3300
arkhe.com.au
Chef Jake Kellie
Price guide $$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Fri-Sun; Dinner Tue-Sun
This review was written independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way. To learn more about the process, head over here.