REVIEW
It takes confidence to write a menu with "koshihikari rice, turnip, pumpkin" as one of (just) three main course options. Then again, Seth James isn't a chef short on confidence. Or ideas. So the rice is cooked in a shiitake dashi, the butter-poached pumpkin cut into micronised cubes, and this next-gen pilaf is finished tableside with a fermented vegetable broth for maximum pow. When it comes to more-is-more cooking, Frui Momento's tightly composed plates are among the west's best. "Tagliatelle" dressed in a rockmelon and chicken sauce is, in fact, strips of finely cut cuttlefish while a blood-orange broth is the outré yet inspired match for grilled quail. Bitter chocolate mousse cloaking stewed pears ends things on a high. The ambition of the kitchen is matched by the soigné chalet-inspired dining room, manicured grounds and a heavyweight cellar stacked with global stars and sharp wines from Larry Cherubino, James's business partner.
ABOUT
Chef Seth James
Price guide $$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Price guide $$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way. To learn more about the process, click here.
