GOMA Restaurant: Restaurant review

Take a seat in this light-filled, gallery-like corner room, and prepare to have your senses stimulated by Matt Blackwell's nuanced cooking. The chef's menu is a smart play, and knowledgeable staff keep the ball rolling at a steady pace. Rock oysters kick things off, dressed with sour cream, spring-onion oil and glossy black roe, followed by smoked eel pâté sandwiched between a crisp potato sliver and vinegar-imbued potato straws. Garlicky ajo blanco plays well with charred sugarloaf cabbage, curled beneath shavings of smoked Gouda. Kingfish and mussels meld classic know-how and native ingredients, arriving with onion beurre blanc and fried saltbush. Tart lemon-meringue gelato shows deftness, too, layered with aerated cream and balanced by Uji matcha, packing sherbet rocks that explode upon contact. The drinks list, much like the main building's artworks, highlights local standouts, but is gloriously global in attitude. Every great museum deserves a GOMA-calibre restaurant, but few are fortunate enough to have one.

GOMA Restaurant
Stanley Pl, South Brisbane
(07) 3842 9916
qagoma.qld.gov.au

Chef Matt Blackwell
Price guide $$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes