Mr Wong: Restaurant review

For any restaurant to be consistent in this day and age is an achievement. The fact that Mr Wong – a walloping 240-seater offering 70-plus dishes and 40-odd pages worth of wine – continues to fire on all cylinders is a downright masterstroke. Lunch is the move here, when the full spread of meticulously crafted dim sum is up for grabs: flaky, full-flavoured duck spring rolls, say, or peerless, delicate dumplings brimming with wild mushrooms or king crab, prawns, black garlic and trout roe. More substantial dishes, such as firm-fleshed Glacier 51 toothfish fragrant with ginger and spring onion, treat Cantonese tradition with proper respect. There's whimsy, too, in fluffy "typhoon shelter" fried rice with king crab, dusted in a fluorescent rubble of fried chilli and garlic. Surrender all thoughts of recession, doom and gloom – in this frenetic fantasy of luxury and excess, the party never stops.

Mr Wong
3 Bridge Lane, Sydney
(02) 9114 7317
merivale.com/venues/mrwong

Chefs Dan Hong & Michael Luo
Price guide $$$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes