Restaurant Guide

O.My: Restaurant review

It's hard to fathom that O.My is 10, given the level of enthusiasm the Bertoncello brothers bring to their dark-hued, city-edge diner.

REVIEW

It's hard to fathom that O.My is 10, given the level of enthusiasm the Bertoncello brothers (Blayne in the kitchen and on the restaurant's farm; Chayse on wine and the floor) bring to their dark-hued, city-edge diner. The sense of fun and adventure throughout the 10 to 20 veg-focused courses is infectious; not just because the combinations of flavours are wholly original, but also because they're also unfailingly delicious. It might start with a small ring of fried pastry filled, wreath-like, with edible leaves and flowers. Then skip to pickled and fermented vegetables in tempura-like batter. And on to seared and poached calamari with semi-dried tomatoes in a luscious broth made from the offcuts, wallaby teamed with pickled green tomatoes and a sourdough pudding with quince and strawberry gum. The wine selection is a highlight, favouring well-made, minimal-intervention labels from small growers, all explained with candour and humour. Another 10 please.

ABOUT

O.My
Australian
70 Princes Hwy, Beaconsfield
(03) 9769 9000
omyrestaurant.com.au
Chef Blayne Bertoncello
Price guide $$$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Sat-Sun; Dinner Thu-Sun
This review was written independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way. To learn more about the process, head over here.