Restaurant Guide

Petermen: Restaurant review

Josh and Julie Niland’s fifth and latest venture might just be their most ambitious offering to date.

REVIEW

Josh and Julie Niland's fifth and latest venture might just be their most ambitious offering to date. Australia's finest seafood, of course, is the star, treated with unrivalled ingenuity and care. Preserved Jervis Bay mussels outshine what you'd find in the priciest of Spanish tins, steeped in a subtly smoky achiote vinaigrette; symmetrically sliced raw bonito could hold its own at any high-end omakase counter, dressed with soy sauce made from its own bones. Longtime fans will rejoice in the revival of the cracking sea-urchin crumpets and brilliant lemon tart from Saint Peter's early days, while clever large-format mains like a chateaubriand-style yellowfin tuna steak will no doubt attract new devotees. The drinks list is thoughtful, the service assured and the perfectly formed saltbush empanadas proof that the flair extends well beyond fish. You'll leave wondering whether there's anything this enterprising young couple can't do.

ABOUT

Petermen
Seafood
66 Chandos St, St Leonards
(02) 8387 4836
petermen.com.au
Chefs Josh Niland & Joe Greenwood
Price guide $$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Fri-Sun; Dinner Wed-Sat
This review was written independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way. To learn more about the process, head over here.