REVIEW
Surprise! Perth's most polished bar food isn't found in a wine bar, but in a lively neighbourhood hangout in upwardly mobile Doubleview. As its clientele demands, this whitewashed, chocolate-tiled space sits at the more casual end of the spectrum: you order at the counter, hip front-of-house staff are as relaxed as their attire, and the drinks list favours good-time beers, wines and cocktails. Accessibility is also important to chef James Cole Bowen, an emerging cooking talent fond of using sharp technique to make the familiar dazzle anew. Long spears of Zuni-style pickles brighten silky house ricotta; toast anointed with a smoky charcoal-infused mayo freight elegant beef tartare; XO sauce and deep-fried shallots lend Asian sensibility to roasted sugarloaf cabbage. The menu might be small, but kitchen smarts ensure every dish is a winner. Here's looking at you, Filipino leche flan topped with a whisky-and-orange-bitters caramel.
ABOUT
Chef James Cole Bowen
Price guide $$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Price guide $$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way. To learn more about the process, click here.
