Restaurant Guide

Vasse Felix: Restaurant review

Caves Road – arguably the cradle of the Margaret River wine region – is rich in history, yet also plays home to forward-thinkers aplenty.

REVIEW

Caves Road – arguably the cradle of the Margaret River wine region – is rich in history, yet also plays home to forward-thinkers aplenty. Among the vanguard is Vasse Felix, a powerhouse estate comprising a modern art gallery, sleek tasting room and urbane restaurant overlooking some of the region's original vines. The kitchen maintains the progressive momentum with detailed dishes big on deliciousness. Jerusalem artichoke hash browns make perfect podiums for tuna belly sashimi, while kingfish is cured in miso and sake, showered in cubes of capsicum jelly then finished with shio koji-infused macadamia milk and makrut lime vinaigrette. Slow-roasted Wagin duck breast stuffed with chicken and bacon farce, meanwhile, benefits greatly from shiitake chutney and gingery blackberry sauce. Service is just as engaging as the marquee wine list, which caters to both traditional and contemporary tastes. Desserts, in the vein of weightless olive-oil cake cloaked by fine strips of persimmon "leather", maintain the high right to the end.

ABOUT

Vasse Felix
Australian
Cnr Tom Cullity Dr and Caves Rd, Cowaramup
(08) 9756 5050
vassefelix.com.au
Chef Cameron Jones
Price guide $$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch daily
This review was written independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way. To learn more about the process, head over here.